CYCLE ELECTRIC INC
38A&45A Kit Instructions
Fitment
The CE-45A will fit
ALL 91-98 FLT* FLH* 91-94 FXR*
The CE-45A may fit 89-90
models if proper primary chain alignment can be achieved. This depends on what
variable thickness shim was needed to set primary chain alignment from the
factory
These are generalized instructions and are not
intended to be all-inclusive. For more detail on your model see service manual.
Kit Contains
QTY DESCRIPTION
1 Stator
1 Rotor
1 Regulator
1 Sprocket shaft spacer
1 Wire kit for 92-96
1 Wire kit for 89-91
1 50 Amp Breaker
1 Circuit Breaker Clamp
1 Oil Seal
4 Stator Mounting Screws
2 ¼ -28 x 1¼ Bolts
2 ¼ -28 Locknuts
2 ¼” Flat washers
6 Wire Ties.
Things Needed Not Included In Kit
1. Primary gasket for your
model.
2. Additional variable
thickness shims maybe required obtaining proper primary chain alignment.
3. Special tools.
A)SNAP ON #YA 105 seal
puller (or equitant)
B)HD-39361 seal insulation tool
C)HD-41771 rotor remover/Installer
Alternator Removal
1) Disconnect negative
battery cable.
2) Consult appropriate
service manual and remove outer primary cover.
3) Check primary chain
alignment. Place a strait edge across the gasket surface on the inner primary.
Using a dial caliper, measure the distance from the straight edge to the
primary chain as close to the clutch as possible with the chain pushed all the
way in. Record this measurement as A. Repeat measuring as close to the
compensator sprocket as possible Label this measurement B. Subtract B from A
and note this C. A-B=C.
C can be a positive or negative number and should not
exceed +/- .030”.
4) Consult appropriate
service manual and remove compensator sprocket.
Note: After
several thousand miles it may be possible to remove the compensator sprocket
and chain adjustor shoe without removing the clutch. Caution: Do not put
excessive side force on chain.
5) Remove output shaft
extension. Take note of all shims and spaces between output shaft extension and
rotor.
6) Remove rotor and take note
of all spacers under rotor.
7) Unplug regulator from
stator
8) Remove stator
9) On 1989-96 models remove
output shaft seal using snap on seal puller #YA105 or
Equivalent. Take care not to
scratch aluminum case or the new seal will leak.
NOTE: 1997 and later FLH
&FLT’s come with proper sprocket shaft spacer. Skip #9 & 10
10) Remove sprocket shaft
spacer.
Alternator Installation
Note: On new installations or if you did not follow
step 3 of alternator removal in these instructions, you will have to assemble
compensator sprocket and clutch to determine what variable thickness
spacer is needed for proper primary chain alignment.
1) To determine what variable thickness spacer is needed
for proper primary chain alignment; compare the stack height of the old
components with the new ones. Then factor in the state of alignment before
disassembly (dimension C).
(New stack height)-(old stack
height)+C=S
C=Chain alignment before disassembly as measured in step 3 of alternator removal.
S= Chain alignment with new
components.
Note: C and S can be either positive or negative
numbers. Be sure to keep track of polarity.
If S is within +/- .030 no additional shimming is needed.
If S is more negative than -.030 (EX: -.040)
then add shims. If you have -.040 and you add a +.060 shim your chain alignment
will be out by +.020, which is within the +/-.030 speck.
If S is more than +.030 proper primary chain alignment
cannot be achieved without removing material from on top of rotor or output
shaft extension
When S=zero compensator sprocket and clutch sprocket are
in line
Actual stack heights may vary
|
Old parts removed from motorcycle
|
New parts from kit |
||
89-98 |
91-98 |
CE-38A |
CE-45A |
|
Rotor |
.187 |
.187 |
.225 |
.245 |
Sprocket Spacer |
.680 |
.680 |
1.040 |
1.040 |
Inner Spacer |
.095 |
.095 |
N/A |
N/A |
Outer Spacer |
.219 |
.249 |
N/A |
N/A |
Variable Thickness |
.060 |
.060 |
? |
? |
Stack Height |
1.241 |
1.271 |
1.265 |
1.285 |
2) Place new sprocket shaft
spacer on sprocket shaft, and slide against bearing with the large diameter
inward.
3) Press new sprocket shaft
seal into crankcase with seal lip facing outward. Use HD39361 sprocket
shaft seal installation tool.
4) Install new stator.
Feed wires through hole in crankcase. Gently hold grommet on
clamp surface with needle nosed pliers. Use pliers to push on grommet shoulder
(do not squeeze too tightly) while gently pulling on wires until grommet slides
into position.
Do not slide the grommet too far because it may not
slide back without causing grommet damage.
5) Install grommet retainer.
Use lock-tight 222 (purple) on retainer screws.
Note: If your cases do not
have wire clamp screw holes, use high temp silicone sealer (preferably black)
to hold grommet in place. When using
sealer the grommet will slide in the hole very easy. Do not let first lip on grommet to come out the top of case hole.
6) Install four new
stator-mounting screws (supplied). Torque to 30-40 In-Lb.
!CAUTION!
When installing the rotor, keep fingers away from
edge. The magnetic force may cause rotor to suddenly be drawn inward and could
pinch fingers if in the way.
Note: the
magnets in the CE-9700 rotors are significantly stronger than normal rotors. It
is recommended that you use a special rotor remover/installer tool such as
(HD-441771).
7) Install rotor
8) Install appropriate
variable thickness shims as determined in step 1 of these instructions.
9) Install output shaft
extension.
10) Install compensator
sprocket adjuster shoe and clutch if removed check chain alignment. Adjust
shims as necessary.
11) After confirming that the
primary chain is properly aligned, apply red lock-tight #262 to threads on
output shaft and torque to 150 to 165 ft/lb.
If clutch was removed, use lock-tight number 262 and
torque to 70-80 ft-lb (left-hand thread).
12) Adjust primary chain.
13) Assemble primary cover
and all other components previously removed.
14) Fill primary with oil.
Oil should be level with the bottom edge of clutch plates.
Regulator Removal
1) Disconnect battery
negative terminal.
2) Remove old regulator.
A- Disconnect regulator B+ wire from main circuit breaker
(See chart for location).
Year and model Breaker Location 89-92 all FL
under right side cover on battery tray or
oil tank
93-Up all FL
Under seat on frame cross rail
89-94 FXR Under left side cover
Note how regulator wire is
routed and cut necessary wire ties and remove wire.
Note: If you tie a piece of nylon cord or fishing line
to the ring terminal before pulling wire out, you can use this cord to pull new
wire in place.
3) Remove regulator with
bracket from lower frame cross member.
Note: 89-93 models come stock with a 30 Amp main
breaker. Do not change to a larger breaker or switches and wires may burn up.
89-93 models must add the
50A auxiliary breaker supplied in this kit. Optional on 94-up. We recommend
that new accessories that use a lot of amps be connected to the silver
terminate on the new 50A breaker. If you want these accessories to activate
from your ignition switch, use a relay.
1989-92 mount breaker bracket
on front side of battery tray. Remove battery, drill hole and secure
with pop rivet.
1993 models mount breaker
bracket on upper frame cross member (near stock breaker). If your pop riveter
won’t fit between frame secure bracket with sheet metal screw.
- Insert new 50A breaker in
breaker bracket.
Connect small end of 13” wire to copper color terminal on
circuit breaker. Connect large end to battery positive terminal.
Regulator
Installation
1) Connecting wires to
regulator
Note: When connecting wires, place regulator upside
down with something soft under fins so paint won’t be scratched.
A- Regulator B+ wire is 50” long. One end has yellow
marker on it. Connect end labeled B+ to B+ terminal on regulator.
B- This kit comes with two wires labeled GND.
1989 to 92 models use the
shorter 32” wire.
1993 to 98 models use the
longer 48” wire.
Determine which GND wire you
need. Connect the end with the smaller ring terminal to regulator GND terminal
on regulator.
Note: For best appearance, position wires to follow
the contour of the regulator legs.
C- To connect
the AC wires place regulator upside-down on suitable stand in front of front
motor mount. The regulator-shipping box should work. Connect one AC wire from stator to each AC terminal on regulator.
It doesn’t matter which one goes where.
2) Mounting Regulator
Flip regulator up onto frame cross member so it straddles
the motor mount. On 1989-94 models use
¼-28x 1¼ bolts (supplied) to mount regulator. On 1995-98 models slide regulator
on ¼ -20 studs and use stock nuts.
3) 89-92 route B+ wire the
same way as old regulator wire. Connect yellow end to silver terminal of new
50-amp breaker.
Route GND wire along lower right frame rail. Follow
crossover bracket to the left side. Connect to 5/16” bolt where braided ground
cable connects. This bolt also connects your inner primary to frame. 93-98
routes B+ and GND wire
together the same way as old
regulator wire. Connect yellow end of B+ wire to silver post of new 50A breaker
(94& up may connect to stock 50A breaker).
On 93-96 models, connect GND wire to grounding bolt on
frame above oil filler cap.
On 97-98 models, connect GND wire to left side ground
post located under seat in front of the battery.
4) Check all wires to be sure they are not in a vulnerable
position. Keep wires away from front motor mount and exhaust pipes. Do not run
wires on the bottom of frame rail where they will get pinched if you bottom
out.
Replace all wire ties previously cut and add new where
necessary.
Testing
Reconnect battery and start
motor.
Check voltage at the battery
terminals.
With a good battery you
should get 14.3 to 14.6 VDC.
Specifications *Usable DC Amps
At
1000 RPM at 2500 RPM
CE-38A 14 38
CE-45A 30 45
* Cycle Electric Inc defines usable DC amps as the amount of DC
amps a charging system can deliver while maintaining a battery voltage of 13.8
or higher.
Note: If your motorcycle is using more amps than the
charging system is putting out, battery voltage will not rise. Ex: If you have
a CE-38A, which puts out 14 amps at 1000 RPM and you are using 20 amps the
battery voltage won’t come up at an idle.
Have A Good
Ride
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